Summer is not attending this year

All you exterior painting types are tired of waiting for a clear stretch of sunny weather, as am I.
I think we are going to fit all our outside painting into August and September. Some parts of a building can be finished in this weather, just leave wooden sills and areas that need need to dry before paint is applied.
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Don't rush the paint job

Remember that exterior paint requires at least 10 degrees Celsius to adhere properly.
Also the surface has to be dry to prevent the paint from coming off when the sun heats the surface, creating steam from underlying dampness.

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Ben is a new green paint from Benjamin Moore

I like the new low VOC paint from Benjamin Moore called BEN. I know I sound like a rep and not a professional customer who uses their products. I like the way it spreads and the way it looks, top marks to the paint designers down at BM.
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Latex and allergies

Is latex paint responsible for the same allergies as latex gloves?
No, because latex paint is made with synthetic resins and not natural rubber from trees.

Here is a link for more detailed information.

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Time to paint the exterior?

It's a bit early to paint anything outside if you live above the 49th paralel. 10 degrees celsius is the minimum the paint companies have on their cans. What you need is two weeks of sunny warm weather before you paint an exterior. You will need to check any exposed wood to see if it is dry. Moisture sits deep in the wood and will lift the paint when the temperatures rise.
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Faux Finishing glaze

Glaze is a transparent coating, used to create faux finishing effects.
The correct mix of glaze is the most important part of success. A sample board is a good start. This is used to try your colours and see the result before it gets to the wall. Paint the sample board with the same base colour you are using on your wall.
 I'll assume you have bought the Benjamin Moore "Aqua Glaze", although other brands are available. It comes rather thick for most ragging or marbling, and should be thinned with water. Adding colour to the glaze should be done with care.
 What kind of product do you use to colour the glaze?
You can use acrylic paint that artists use; it comes in tubes and is good for choosing colours and blending them.
The second way is to have your paint retail store add a little tint using the tinting machine. This requires a good relationship with someone who won't mess up your glaze.
Thirdly, you can purchase little tubes of colourant (not paint) at some paint retail outlets. These are the best because they will give you the most transparent look and are not going to speed the set-up time of your glaze.
There are also kits for faux finishing that have all the products in one package, although these are costly and I have not used them myself.
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Faux Finishing Tips

Although faux finishing takes some level of skill, it's doesn't mean you shouldn't try it. I recomend finding some books on faux finishing.

Here are some books to go look for : Paint Magic. The art of faux. Country Paint.

Some big box stores like The Home Depot have faux painting books also.

If you are a complete novice, please read up on the subject first. Start with a small area, maybe a bathroom or closet.

The first thing is to paint the area being faux finished with the base colour. This also should be considered very carefully. The colour you use underneath will transmit through the glazes applied over it. White is a safe start but often a buttery yellow will give a soft glow when other colours are applied.

Faux finishing glazes can be obtained from many paint stores. They tend to dry slower than regular clear acrylic coatings. The old way of preparing glaze is to use Linseed oil and paint thinner. If you do use this method be aware that used Linseed oil rags self ignite when left bunched up. This could ruin your day, and burn down someones house.

Another method of making glaze is to purchase a deep base paint from the paint store without any tint in it. The bases that your colours are made from are quite transparent before the colour is added. Also you can purchase an extender, this helps slow the setup time of the paint.

So there are two types of proccess to consider, dabbing on and dabbing off. The dabbing on is easier because it doesn't matter how fast the

paint dries. The trick is to spread out you efforts all over the wall and not try to perfect one area. This way you will avoid unattractive area's that are uneven and hard to fix.

Dabbing off is removing glaze with a rag after it is applied. This requires slow setting glaze and fast moving painters. Always practice somewhere that doesn't show too much before you attempt a big wall. We always have one person applying the glaze and one frenzied painter dabbing off right behind. The looks are wonderful but the proccess is not that easy. The correct mix of glaze is the most important part of success.

Everything is green,but?

From lime kilns in Cornwall 2 centuries ago, to the latest low VOC paints coming onto the market in 2010. We, as a species may well be inclined to slap ourselves on the collective backs for a job well done.
Before we get too excited, remember that water soluble products are contributing to contaminated water supplies world wide. The paint industry, to which I must also belong, is not really taking the lead in this rush to be green. It is grudgingly being pushed to adopt new rules that it wished would not be there.
We, (that's you and me), are a force that CAN change the way all industries produce products. We only have to demand change and it will happen. The problem there is that we are so used to cheap, we don't really care about the cost to the evironment. How much do you know about the paint you put on your walls? Is it full of fungucides? what are VOC's? can my children lick the paint?
 Individually we do care, but together we are as careless as a herd of buffalo's running over a cliff.
So consumers, educate yourselves about the products you buy, it's your responsibility, and your duty to your children and grandchildren.
Happy painting.
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Benjamin Moore

A new year with new paint

As 2010 rolls in new regulations take affect to regulate the paint retail business.
The paint companies have started to roll out their lines of green paint, namely paint with low VOC's (volatile organic compounds).
These paints have a much shorter open time (working time) and really are still at a stage where improvement is needed. Some of the immediate things painters notice is the way these paints will clog up brushes and will dry on your roll if you don't cover it when you go for coffee.
A small spritzer is a good thing to keep around, I often spray my roller tray if I'm leaving it for more than a few minutes. Also I keep a roll of cling film to wrap my brush at lunch time and put some across my roller tray to prevent that thin skin from forming and later transfered to the wall.
The new paints are a result of legislation in California that trickles around to the rest of us some time later. I personally liked the alkyde modified exterior paints that Benjamin Moore made for decades, and will be sad to see them go.
I've got news for you folks, 100% acrylic is not all it's cracked up to be, acrylic softens in water and is not as good as their modified cousins.
Have a good 2010 painting and stay safe. Ken Wells http://www.mercuryminc.net/

Trade secret # 9

Here's one painting problem that many people are confused about.
Can you paint latex over previously painted oil paint?
Usually the oil paint has been on the surface for a few years, so the answer here is yes.
Here is the condition. If it's a high gloss finish then you MUST sand every part of the surface so it takes off all the gloss. Then wipe it down to remove the dust and paint away.
If it's old alkyd paint on the walls, sand and paint. Sometimes it might require washing with TSP.
If it's fairly new oil paint then you have a problem. There are some paints you can find that will remedy this, but sanding is still the key.
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