Summer is not attending this year

All you exterior painting types are tired of waiting for a clear stretch of sunny weather, as am I.
I think we are going to fit all our outside painting into August and September. Some parts of a building can be finished in this weather, just leave wooden sills and areas that need need to dry before paint is applied.
Visit us at http://www.mercuryminc.net/

Don't rush the paint job

Remember that exterior paint requires at least 10 degrees Celsius to adhere properly.
Also the surface has to be dry to prevent the paint from coming off when the sun heats the surface, creating steam from underlying dampness.

More on painting trade secrets at http://www.mercuryminc.net/

Cold enough?

With winter blasting away all over the country you would not think that painting is on many peoples minds.
 Interior painting is actually on many peoples agenda's because during these cold months we see more of the inside of our houses than we would sometimes like.
Paint contractors are usually a bit slower at this time of year, so, consider getting some quotes for any painting you need done. Remember that in the spring everyone suddenly wants a painter and prices are less flexable.

Visit our site @ http://www.mercuryminc.net/ or email me @ mercurymediainc@telus.net  Ken.

Time to paint the exterior?

It's a bit early to paint anything outside if you live above the 49th paralel. 10 degrees celsius is the minimum the paint companies have on their cans. What you need is two weeks of sunny warm weather before you paint an exterior. You will need to check any exposed wood to see if it is dry. Moisture sits deep in the wood and will lift the paint when the temperatures rise.
Visit us at http://www.mercuryminc.net/

Anybody can paint?

Yesterday I was reviewing the You Tube videos on how to paint a wall or room.
It was not a pretty site. From the Australian one that has a guy on the top step of a ladder holding a full roller tray of paint like a pizza delivery guy. 
Then the painter using a three quarter inch pile roller sleeve (250mil). The correct roller sleeve pile is 10 mil for interior walls by the way. Any longer and you get a very rough looking texture on the wall. The other bad one showed all the trim taped with masking tape. He must have shares in 3M.
There are some OK ones and here is a link. Although don't listen to the no dropsheet part, use one or you will get paint on your floor.
Back rolling is also important, and is missed by many painting videos, probably because they don't know about it. Back rolling.
Also, using a roller tray to load your roller is OK and better than a five gallon bucket for most home owners. The final tip is try to avoid getting paint on the axle of the roller cage as you reload the roller. This will drip both on the floor as you lift the loaded roller up and down the wall as you paint. Our site has reliable information on home painting. Expect a video from us soon.
Visit us at http://www.mercuryminc.net/

Wallpaper paste

Wallpaper paste comes in a few varieties. The premixed paste can be cellulose, or clay based.
I like the clear vinyl paste which works for most applications.
I know most wallpapers are prepasted, but if you choose an expensive wallpaper, then it will likely be unpasted. Hence this little blog. In the film industry we used wheat paste for many scenic applications but it is hard to find, hard to mix, and is prone to mold.
visit my site @ www.mercuryminc.net  or look at my past blogs on painting.

Method for painting doors

Painting flush panel doors is a simple job, but here are the steps. Cover the floor with a drop cloth or news paper. I like a piece of thin cardboard especially if there is carpet on the floor.
Remove the door hardware (door handle) and keep them to one side. Sand the surface of the door with a 120 to 220 grit sand paper or a med/fine sanding sponge,(use the fine side).
Wipe the door down with a damp rag and inspect for any imperfections that you may have to fix.
Open the paint, pour it into a roller tray and use a 7 inch roller with a 6 mm sleeve. These smaller rollers are much easier to handle than the 9 inch wall rollers and are great for doors.
Using your sash brush, paint the edge of the door that belongs to the side you are painting.
If the door opens away from you, it's the hinge edge, if it opens towards you, it's the edge with the handle and latch. After you have brushed the edge, go around to the back of the door and wipe off any extra paint that may have crept around on the other face. Now dip the roller and roll the surface. With a flat door you should be able to leave the surface as a roller finish, if you decide to brush it out you will need to work VERY fast especially with the new paints. Brush vertically and be careful to keep the strokes straight and not get drips off the top edge of the door.
visit us @ www.mercuryninc.net

Basic steps

Just like the Karate Kid who wanted to be a master in the sport, painting is really about the basics. If I had a dollar for how many people who told me "I can paint", I'd be living in a castle.
Yesterday I went to see a small painting job that included 6 doors and frames that were painted with the highest gloss paint I have seen. Before I paint them I will need to sand them to a flat appearance, otherwise you could pull the new paint off with your thumbnail after a month.
To avoid dust I will use automotive emery paper, this is used with water, (usually a wet rag) and works really fast and efficiently. The grit should be 150 or 180, even 220 would be OK. Wipe the surface after you've finished sanding and voila. A good quality semi gloss or eggshell latex will be used to repaint these doors and frames.
Visit us @ www.mercuryminc.net

Trade secret # 9

Here's one painting problem that many people are confused about.
Can you paint latex over previously painted oil paint?
Usually the oil paint has been on the surface for a few years, so the answer here is yes.
Here is the condition. If it's a high gloss finish then you MUST sand every part of the surface so it takes off all the gloss. Then wipe it down to remove the dust and paint away.
If it's old alkyd paint on the walls, sand and paint. Sometimes it might require washing with TSP.
If it's fairly new oil paint then you have a problem. There are some paints you can find that will remedy this, but sanding is still the key.
More information can be found on our site
http://www.mercuryminc.net/

Trade secret tip # two

On my website I have mentioned how to buy the correct filling knife. The flexible ones are filling knives, the stiff ones are used for scraping. A 2" and a 4" knife will be all you should need for regular work around the home. Use the two knives together, one to hold the mud, the other to apply it .
A ready made filler like Redifiller is OK for picture hook holes and little dents around your home. Bigger holes sometimes require a filler that is mixed before you apply it. The advantage is that the filler will set and be ready to sand before the premix variety and for bigger holes it won't shrink as much.
DON'T over fill. Press the filler into the hole and then draw the knife across the hole and remove all the filler thats not hiding in the hole. If it shrinks, fill it again. This one technique saves hours of dusty sanding and subsequent clean up.






http://www.mercuryminc.net

Tip # one

trade secrets are not what people expect. The most basic habits are the things that make the difference. Where you place your tools can have a huge impact on your jobsite. For instance putting your paint can in or near a doorway can have unwelcome outcomes. If someone treads in your rollertray is it their fault or yours for having it in the way? Think about it .... and talk to you soon. Ken.